The Lure of Loutro

The harbor at Loutro

I don't know what it is about Loutro that so enchants me. It has done so since we were first there in 1984. Back then it was only a small fishing village with just a few houses and guesthouses, not even a hotel. But I've longed to go back ever since. While we knew that Loutro had grown, expanding so that the entire harbor is now filled with hotel after hotel with multiple restaurants and bars, there was still something magical about it that enticed us.


It's such a lovely spot. And it's still remote. It's on the south coast of Crete, and you can only get there by boat or hiking in. No cars.

We didn't stay there on our first trip. At that time, we had taken the ferry to Agia Roumeli, a village at the end of the Samaria Gorge that has been a popular hike for decades. Based on a Rick Steves' suggestion, we did not walk the entire gorge. Instead, we took a ferry to Agia Roumeli and walked up to the narrowest part of the Gorge, which was not a long hike. On our way back, we got off the ferry at tiny Loutro, where we saw a few young Australians playing backgammon outside of a bed-and-breakfast. The few buildings that were there were painted in the traditional Greek colors of white with blue doors and shutters, a theme which remains today with the Loutro buildings.

It was such a joy to come back!


How could anyone not be enchanted with the blue sky and the water with those almost surreal shades of Mediterranean blue? Loutro's water is also incredibly clear, as my photos from a waterfront cafe attest.





Returning to the area by boat allowed us to get a peek at the hiking trail that we that we took in 1984 to return from Loutro to the town of Chora Sfakion, where we had stayed then. For me, it was the scariest hike of my life! I suppose my adventurous nephew and his family in Utah wouldn't hesitate a bit at that trail, because they have hiked the Angel's Landing in Zion, a track along an extremely narrow ridge that drops a thousand feet on each side. But I found it terrifying!

Google's description of the hike reads: "The trail features dramatic clifftop sections, requiring a head for heights and careful footing." I'm sure the path was not as narrow as it seemed at the time, but if you weren't careful, you could plunge deep into the sea. I was so scared that I froze. Kevin was very patient and waited for me. It was as frightening to go backward as forward, so for what seemed like an hour, but I'm sure was only minutes, I just huddled on the cliff. Finally, I crawled on hands and knees up the path. I survived! What a relief! So it was interesting to see that cliff again from the boat, although the most precarious part is not quite visible.


The nefarious cliff. You can't really see the scariest part. The line is the trail.

I knew there was no way I was going on that trail again. However, on this trip we did not stay in Loutro itself. Instead, we booked a small, family-run hotel complex over the hill from Loutro, called the Old Phoenix. To get to Loutro from there, we had to hike over another trail. It was not hair-raising like the cliff trail, but it wasn't easy either. I was grateful to Kevin for helping me over the rough rocks, where there were a few areas that would be quite damaging if you did fall.

There were actually two trails from the Old Phoenix to Loutro. Before I describe the one we took most often, I should comment on the first path we took. That trail involved a lot of elevation gain, but was intriguing because at the top of the hill, before the descent to Loutro, there are the ruins of an Ottoman fort built in 1868, along with a little labyrinth and the stone remnants of the ancient town of Phoenix.

The first time we attempted to hike to Loutro, I suggested we take the way over the top, so we could explore the tower and ruins along the way. According to our online research, that trail was faster than the one that edged around the cliffside. Not even close! Maybe if you are 19 years old and a champion runner, that would be true, but for me it was so difficult that when I reached the top, I didn't even feel like exploring any of the ruins there! Rocky and steep, it took all my energy and Kevin's assistance to finally make it down to the village. 


The old Turkish tower

Goats are everywhere at the Old Phoenix and on the hillsides surrounding it, including the ruins. Their bells provided a musical backdrop as we tackled the trails.

The goats were everywhere!

While I normally do not post photos of myself that are quite unflattering, I'm posting a picture of me when we reached Loutro that day, because it illustrates what a labor it was. My hair was dripping with sweat, and I looked a mess! But I refreshed myself with some hand-squeezed fresh orange juice, and while Kevin made his way back by the lower trail, I took the boat. No more walking for me that day! 


After that hike, I looked and felt like a mess.

After I recovered and returned to the Old Phoenix, I was immensely glad to be there. And in the evening, sitting in the restaurant, we relaxed and watched the sunset. A great day!



 










 

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