The Old Phoenix on Finikas Bay

 

View of the Old Phoenix hotel complex from the hillside above it. Our studio was in 
the building at the far left, downstairs from the owner's home.

What we wanted most from our stay in Crete was to recapture some of the feeling of the Greece we remembered. The Old Phoenix provided that in many ways. It was small and family run, in a stunning setting. Manousos and Lisa, who were our hosts, were very kind and welcoming. Lisa, who was German, had studied in Toronto, so she had a very good command of English. But they were both friendly. While we were there, Lisa's parents, Eric and Maria, were visiting from Munich, and we also chatted with them, and with Lisa's and Manousos' daughter Maria, named after her grandmother.


 

I really liked the studio that we rented. Unfortunately, I didn't get any photos of the inside. But it was spacious enough for us with a large double bed, an ensuite bathroom with shower, a kitchenette, a table and chairs, a loveseat, and a bookcase full of books, including many in English. Although we had air-conditioning and wifi, in one way we got more of the "old Greece" than we expected--the Old Phoenix did not have a laundry, nor could you pay to have your clothes laundered. I had to wash our clothes by hand, although there was a rack to hang them outside with plenty of clothes pins. That was fine.

Once again, I was fascinated with how much of ancient Greek culture has remnants even today. The hooks on the shutters on our studio window, for example, resembled sculptures of ancient goddesses.



We spent a lot of time on our patio. Some days we ate breakfast there--which always included the incredible Greek yogurt with fruit and honey--on the days when we didn't go over to the cafe. It was always quiet and relaxing. And, best of all, no bugs!

View from our patio


Kevin relaxing on our patio.


The Greek lager that Kevin enjoyed.


One bonus was a private beach available only to those in the three studios. Most of the time we had it completely to ourselves. Although I had to go to the main beach to swim and snorkel (which I did every day but the one when it was windy), at the private beach we could sit on lounge chairs and read, and look out on the sea and the hilltop. We called it "piggy beach" because Erik had modified the rock there that resembled a pig to make it appear even more porcine.

Erik had helped Manousos plant the tamarisk trees that lined the beach, which provided shade for our lounge chairs. Erik and Maria told us that Tamarisk trees will only grow where the land is salty, as it is next to the sea. People often set the trees in areas to absorb salt, and then they can grow other plants or bushes there. I touched one of the needles to my tongue, and sure enough, it tasted like salt.



The pig on Piggy Beach

Even on the blustery day, it was a lovely place to relax, because the wind was warm. It was in the mid-80s (Fahrenheit) during our visit, which made swimming and snorkeling a delight. I have no photos of the aquatic life there, but I identified a type of sea bream and saw many needlefish, which come close to shore in September prior to mating. (But they are not dangerous as large needlefish in other areas are.)


Finikas is the Greek word for Phoenician, so the Old Phoenix is probably named that from the old port there in Phoenician times, rather than for the mythological bird. 

If you're a cat lover, as I am, the Old Phoenix offers another treat--a plethora of cats! Of course, in the U.S. they would never allow cats inside a restaurant, but at the Old Phoenix, plenty of cats hung out there, all hoping for food treats. They also visited our patio, where I fed them. (I was able to buy cat food in Loutro. When I asked about it, the woman at the store did not understand me at first. But as soon as I mimicked, "Me-ow," she smiled and instantly directed me to the right shelf.)


Pavlos, Lisa's cat


Leonides, which means "son of lion" acted as though he was our cat.


Leonides was not the least shy.


We didn't now the names of this mom and baby who were regular visitors.

The old Phoenix had several attractive gates that Erik and Manousos had built. One of those adorned our patio.


And nearly every evening, the end of the day was marked by a glorious sunset.





What a beautiful end to the day.

Note: We only saw one other American couple when we stayed at the Old Phoenix--and they were from Seattle! Most of the people staying there were Europeans, with a few Brits.

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